Star jasmine: care

Its scientific name is Trachelospermum jasminoides and in reality it is not a jasmine, because unlike these, it belongs to the Apocynaceae family, and not to the Oleaceae. Due to this, it also receives the popular name of false jasmine, trachelosperm or Chinese jasmine (in some places it is called that and in other places this name is given to another species of jasmine that you can learn about in the link), among others, depending on the country. .

It is a climbing plant that can reach up to 10 meters in height if it grows with the right support, otherwise it will form a dense bush. This plant is native to Japan and China, although it is currently widespread throughout much of the world due to its ornamental value.

It stands out, above all, for the three markedly different aspects that it adopts throughout the year: with dark green leaves for much of the year, but a bright light green when it gives new shoots and turning white from its aromatic flowers. five petals when the warm months arrive, which is when star jasmine blooms.

Here you can learn more types of jasmine.

The star jasmine it can withstand temperatures down to -10 ºC, but this is only once the plant has grown and has sufficient strength and vitality. During the first years this climbing plant does not tolerate intense cold and it will need a warmer or protected location, being recommended for climates without very harsh winters.

When it comes to light, star jasmine will prefer semi-shade or full exposure locations depending on the strength of the sun in the area. In fact, if the rest of its care is taken care of well, it can develop perfectly in locations with up to only two hours of direct light per day.

As for the location, it is recommended to plant it a little less than 50 cm from the wall or surface on which the plant is expected to climb as it grows, since at first it will grow forming a bush of a certain size, which we will have to guide with tutors until that surface to be upholstered. Once the trunk lignifies and gains strength, the star jasmine will no longer need the stake to support itself. If you choose to plant it in a pot, prepare a good-sized one, at least 70 cm deep.

The plant is not excessively demanding when it comes to the soil or substrate it needs. The most important thing here will be that it offers a drain as best as possible, to avoid those puddles that do so much damage to most plants.

add some of organic material such as earthworm humus or compost will also be very helpful for the growth of your plant. If in doubt, use a mixture with one part of peat, another of earthworm humus and a third of coconut fiber. Adding some vermiculite and perlite will really improve the soil’s water retention and absorption properties.

In spring and summer it is advisable to apply liquid manure every two weeks or organic fertilizer on a regular basis to support new shoot growth and flowering.

The Trachelospermum jasminoidesneeds of very regular watering during all the warm months of spring and summer, being very important that the substrate never dry out completely. Of course, this should never be confused with flooding the ground, which is one of the main reasons why you find a withered star jasmine.

If instead you have a star jasmine with dry leaves, may be due to a lack of watering or too much sun. In winter and autumn the plant goes into vegetative rest and will need much less watering. Unless the winters are very dry where you live, you won’t need to water it during these months.

The usual is prune star jasmine every spring. The most vigorous branches are pruned to stimulate their growth and thus work better as a ground cover, so their apexes are often blunted.

In addition, it will also be necessary to carry out maintenance pruning to control its growth and remove dry or damaged parts.

The easiest way to multiply this plant is by cuttings, which are taken between spring and summer. To make a star jasmine cuttingfollow these steps:

1. Disinfect the tools. You will mainly need very sharp and disinfected pruning shears.
2. Cut a green to brown, half-ripe stem about 15 cm long, cutting close to the node.
3. Remove all the leaves from the cutting except for the greenest shoots at the end.
4. Plant it in a small seedbed or container with a potting mix as described above.
5. Water abundantly and keep the soil moist; in a little over a month it will have rooted if it has gone well.

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