How to combat tomato pests ecologically

To begin, we explain in detail what pests attack the tomato, from fungi to insects, as well as viral and other diseases that are very common in these plants. We also mention in each case which are the best tomato disease treatmentsbut later we will explain in detail the best options to combat these pests and diseases, how to prepare each remedy and apply it.

aphid

There is green, yellow, white, black and red aphid, the latter is the one in the photo below. It is a very problematic pest because it spreads very quickly and consumes the sap of the plant until it is exhausted. You will be able to see it behind the leaves and on the stem. To combat it ecologically, we recommend using garlic infusion or including natural predators of these insects, such as ladybugs or wasps.

Minelayer

They are insect larvae that get inside the leaves and as they feed, they leave lines like a path that remind us of mines, hence the name, seriously damaging the plant if not controlled. As they act very fast, the plant can die in a short time. The only totally ecological control of this problem is to cut the affected leaves and throw them in organic waste, far from the ground, or incinerate them.

thrips

It is a parasite that in addition to damaging plants itself also transmits a virus known as tomato bronzing. In this case, prevention is much better than then fighting thrips, as it is much more complicated. To prevent them from settling in the tomato plants, hang from these pieces of plastic that will bother them and place blue sticky traps, which attract them.

White fly

It not only damages tomato plants by sucking the sap, but also transmits diseases. Place chromatic traps that scare them away to avoid them and irrigate with water with neem oil once a month to prevent them and treat the plague if it already exists.

Red spider

This is another one of the outdoor tomato pests, although they can also occur inside the house if we already have affected plants outside. They appear when there is a lack of water and high temperatures. If you see them in your crops, the best way to combat them ecologically is to eliminate the plants that you see most affected, remove the surrounding weeds, as they are places where they tend to nest and shelter, and use remedies such as an infusion of garlic or release natural predators of these, such as other mites called Amblyseius sp. Y Phytoseiulus persimilis.

caterpillars

The caterpillars of butterflies eat the leaves and stems and young shoots of tomato plants. Above all, the species Spodoptera sp. and absolute Tuta. One of the best ecological options to remove them from tomato plants is to use the bacteria Bacillus Thuringiensiswhich can be purchased at agriculture and garden stores and harms the larvae, or use ginger tea or tea.

Mildew

A fungus that affects the leaves and spots in different shades of green are observed, until they get very dark and the leaves finally die. Using a ecological sulfate for tomatoessuch as copper sulfate, or other remedies such as horsetail or nettle punín can be combated.

powdery mildew

It is another fungus that gives a whitish color to the leaves, in the front part, and yellowish spots end up appearing until the leaf dries completely. You can use homemade fungicides, such as milk, nasturtium infusion, nettles or horsetail, as well as powdered sulfur.

Rust

This other fungus makes the back of the leaves orange and the front yellow, until the plant dies. It can be treated with copper sulfate or any of the other home remedies for plant fungus that we have mentioned in the previous sections.

Scab

It is another fungus that attacks a wide variety of crops, but this one differs from the previous ones because it leaves black spots on the leaves and stems. You can combat tomato scab with copper sulphate, nettles, horsetail, sage and tansy or vermicompost.

Rot

There are botrytis and white rots, which are fungi. Botrytis leaves the plant brown and white is detected because white cottony areas are observed. To combat them, use copper sulfate, infusion or extract of garlic, milk, nasturtium, nettles or potassium soap. The best way to prevent them is to avoid damage such as cuts, leave space between each plant for ventilation and remove the affected parts that we see right away.

Lack of calcium or blossom end rot

We mention this other type of rot separately because it is not caused by a fungus itself, but rather the plant has a calcium deficit, either because we give it little in the soil or because it has problems assimilating it. The entire lower area of ​​the fruit is seen darkened or totally black. It is best to irrigate with infusion of eggshells or add them chopped into the soil itself and let them degrade in it.

One of the best insecticides for plants which, in addition, has more properties such as antibacterial and antifungal, is the infusion of garlic. To prepare this remedy take note of how to make garlic infusion for plantsyou can use it against aphids, red spiders, rot and other diseases.

Ingredients

• 1 liter of water
• 5 cloves of garlic

Preparation and application

1. Peel the garlic cloves and chop them very small or crush them a little with the help of a mortar.
2. In a pot or saucepan add the water and add the garlic when you have them ready.
3. Cover the pot with a cotton rag or cloth and let it sit for 24 hours.
4. Place the pot or saucepan on the stove with low or slow heat for 20 minutes.
5. Turn off the heat, let it cool and strain to remove the pieces of garlic.
6. Pour the liquid directly into the sprayer or spray.
7. Spray the entire affected plant, on the areas where there are aphids and on those that do not, to repel them from healthy parts.
8. Do it for 5 days in a row at sunrise or sunset, due to temperature and light.

We tell you more about this remedy and others like it in this other EcologíaVerde article on How to make natural insecticides for plants.

Although it is a remedy that does not contain any purines, as its common name might imply, it is called that because it is not a simple infusion of the plant that is being used, but rather there is a fermentation process that makes the result be very powerful against a wide variety of diseases and pests of tomatoes and other crops.

Thus, nettles and horsetail are very suitable plants to combat pests in tomatoes, since in their fermentation very good bacteria are bred for fixing nitrogen in the soil, which is also provided in quantity at the same time with this liquid because it is an organic or natural fertilizer. In addition, these herbs help strengthen the plant thanks to the silicon they contain, which helps regenerate plant tissues and, in addition, act as a powerful fungicide or antifungal and antiparasitic, so they serve to eliminate fungi, mites and aphids. , among others.

For prepare nettle slurry to combat pests in tomatoesor horsetail, take note of these indications:

Ingredients

• 1 kg of nettles or 1 kg of fresh horsetail
• 10 liters of water, preferably rainwater
• plastic drum

Preparation

1. The drum can be made of plastic or other similar material, but iron must be avoided since rust will damage the mixture we want to obtain.
2. Add the nettles to the drum and the rainwater until completing the indicated amount.
3. Use a wooden stick to stir the mixture well, do not use tools or kitchen utensils that may have rust.
4. Stir for 5-10 minutes once a day. In total it may take between 15 and 20 days.
5. When you finish stirring, cover the drum but in such a way that some air can enter it.
6. Leave the drum in a cool area.
7. Do it every day and when you see that there are fewer bubbles on the surface, due to fermentation, it means that there are 15 days left to finish, since this stage of fermentation usually lasts this period and this is the best time to use it as remedy for pests of tomato plants and, above all, as a preventive method of these.
8. Pour the liquid into a sprayer, watering can or sulfate backpack, with the help of a non-metallic cloth strainer. Use the slurry on the ground as well as on the rest of the plant. When spraying it on the leaves and stem, it is better to dilute this liquid in a proportion of 1 liter of slurry per 15 liters of water.

Finally, if you want to have more natural treatment options for these problems, we offer you information on Homemade Fungicides so you can see which one suits you best.

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